Wine Spectator 94 points - A sweet, smoky thread winds through this, accenting the baked peach, cardamom, papaya, candied blood orange and crushed pine needle notes. A finely layered wine, subtly weaving in the powerful acidity, while the smoke note gains intensity toward the stony, mineral-driven finish. A lot of power partnered with equal finesse. Drink now through 2030. 160 cases made.-AN
(Oct 31 2011)
Vinous 94 points - (12.8% alcohol, 74 g/l r.s. and 8.9 acidity) Pink-tinged gold. Aromas of soft citrus fruits, minerals and toast, plus a suggestion of red berries; one smells the acidity here. Then supersweet and concentrated, but with the cutting acidity giving this VT a wonderfully juicy character. The wine’s stony underpinning accentuates the impression of energy on the very long, pure aftertaste.
Wine Advocate 91 points - On paper, the Zind-Humbrecht 2008 Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal Vendange Tardive differs significantly from its 2009 counterpart only in harboring such high acidity. And indeed, it tastes drier than do a couple of this year’s non-V.T. Gewurztraminer or this year’s Pinot Gris V.V. Dried peach, orange zest, leather, and a prickle of horseradish in the nose lead into an almost severely-concentrated and wince-inducingly bright palate saturated with fresh lemon and orange and laced with faintly bitter zest and sharp horseradish. Hints of lanolin and spice from oak add another dimension that - like the wine’s sheer citricity and dried fruit character - needs time to integrate. This finishes with blazing, eye-watering brightness and limb-twitching electricity. I’m not sure what one should swallow to calm down after experiencing it - I personally had to forge on to taste S.G.N.s. Give this at least half a dozen years in bottle for it to calm down; then, figure it will be worth following for at least another 20. (The corresponding Jebsal S.G.N. is a so-called “trie speciale” that was not even done fermenting when I visited last November.) (May 2011)