This light golden yellow wine has enticing aromas of pineapple, apricot, and green apple. On the palate, the wine has flavors of white peach and honey, with firm acid and a long, citrusy finish.
Wine Advocate 93 points - The nose of Bodenstein’s 2012 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Toni Bodenstein is utterly fascinating, though some may find it off-putting in its suggestion of butchered animal innards, musk, peat, as well as white peach and diverse citrus. The nearest analogy I can think of is to certain Jurancon. Salty and meaty savor on a polished palate runs all the way through a mouthwatering and mysteriously nuanced finish. This genetically-diverse planting in the upper reaches above Weissenkirchen - about which I have written more in several reports - is singular in its location, and here is an instantiation that displays correspondingly unique and unusual scents and flavors. There have been many instances amid these vines previous 15 dedicated bottlings when you had to shake your head in disbelief that not only father-in-law Franz Prager but a great many other experienced vintners told Toni Bodenstein that Riesling would be lucky to ripen in this nose-bleed site more than one year in ten. On this 2012 occasion, though, it can at least be said that the Wachstum is Bodenstein’s one Riesling to have finished closer to 13% than to 13.5% alcohol! (Apr 2014)
Smaragd is the Wachau designation for dry late harvest wines, above 12.5% alcohol through natural fermentation. The best smaragd wines can age well for decades. Wachtum Bodenstein ”the Bodenstein cru” is an experimental vineyard planted with 15 clones of Riesling.
|As a result of this work, Bodenstein now vinifies Riesling from eight different vineyards, and Gruner Veltliner from seven different vineyards all contained within a total production of less than 10,000 cases. Each bottling carries the hallmark terroir of its vineyard and each is as distinctive in the bottle as Bodenstein predicted. The already stellar reputation of the winery has been further enhanced by Bodenstein”s analysis, and the press has given him the moniker of ”Mr. Terroir.”